LFW AW10 Report: Erdem

23 February 2010

For his autumn/winter 2010 collection, Erdem Moralioglu drew inspiration from some very disparate sources; the clothes his sister – a documentary maker - had bought for a trip to the Arctic, his childhood wardrobe, and the colours of autumn.  Bizarre though this combo may sound, Erdem pulled them together to create his best collection to date.  The show of course featured those now-famous printed silk dresses, but to a lesser degree than previous seasons, the prints punctuated with lace, leather and wool pieces. It also featured much more outerwear than before, ranging from a hand-painted aubergine cashmere cape that opened the show, to a slim-fitting plum leather trench that buttoned up to the neck, and a camel cashmere trench with a cosy sheepskin-lined hood.

But, as always with Erdem, the dresses were the main event of the show; short-waisted shift shapes in quilted silk, long sleeved figure-hugging lace numbers, worn with snug silk polo necks or neat, buttoned-up boyish shirts (the boyhood 1970’s wardrobe reference) and the most divine 1930’s inspired high-necked gowns in those amazing prints  - the best of which was an abstract design than on closer inspection proved to be a flock of swallows.

This was a collection that was elegant, but had edge; was grown up, yet at the same time youthful; and wearable, but in no way boring.

What we loved;

The contrast of prim boyish shirts under exquisite, utterly feminine lace dresses.

The shoes – high-heeled hiker boots by Nicolas Kirkwood in Erdem’s fabulous prints.

The music, by Michael Nyman (of “The Piano” soundtrack fame).  It worked perfectly with the clothes and the understated elegance of the show space – The Macmillan Hall at Senate House.


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