Who knew that the Women's Institute could be sexy? Sure some of its members get naked for calendars, but that's not sex (sorry, but it's not). Yet Christopher Kane took influence from the W.I and turned it into something beautiful and, yes, sexy. But that is his skill. He can turn something naff into a work of art that you want to wear. Floral embroidery on leather anyone? Of course not, it sounds so awful. Floral embroidery on leather by Christopher Kane anyone? Absolutely, one in every colour.
Floral leathers and lace were Kane's 'theme' for A/W '10, in the same vein that gingham was last season, and velvet panelling was before. This is a designer who takes an idea and runs with it. Opening with a delicate lace shirt and black kilt - take it from us, we will all be wearing kilts come Christmas and I'm already excited about it - the floral collar was the only hint of what was to come. Following was a procession of black matt or patent leather and lace tops, shift dresses, coats and jackets, all decorated with the garish but beautiful flowers. But normally where Christopher will twist the collection on its head by introducing something totally different at the end, this time he just changed the florals for bursts of beads and studding - which were equally mesmorising and confusing at the same time. Some of the shapes were a bit repetitive, but his production is so sophisticated that you forgive him when you realise that you'd be very happy indeed to spend all day looking at every look.
Christopher Kane is in a league of his own, so much so that reviewing his collections seems totally pointless and a bit wrong.
- Kay Barron