It looked as if Louise Goldin had been feeling the effects of the harsh London winter weather this season. Both in the sense that her techno knits screamed ‘wrap up!’ and ‘protect yourself!’ but also because they were dark and gloomy. Her vision was one of stark, space age outerwear, with more than a touch of military to it, in a futuristic, Blade Runner sense.
3D geometric shapes were incorporated into coats and lampshade skirts, with flat panels and restrictive fabric belts, stiff high collars and imposing, fin-like pelmets. The collection started with a number of looks in dark, combat green, then progressed to matt black pieces embellished with dark stones which glittered menacingly. Stand-out pieces were the charcoal quilted tops fitted tight to the torso, the mix of sparkle and wool in the black outfits and the most intriguing of mini skirts – engineered away from the body which pleasingly lengthened and slimmed legs.
The last of the collection were ensembles in a stern midnight blue which featured the same geometric panels, only this time breaking up the surface with a mix of different textures, like wet-look PVC against matt wool. At certain points the plastic fantastic element, bedecked with multiple pockets and zips started to recall 90s rave outlet Cyberdog, but these are showpieces, and will stand out well in the fashion editorial of the season to come.
Now Miss Goldin has her collaboration in place with Ballantyne, where she shows restraint and impeccable taste in the use of her self-invented knitting technology, perhaps we shouldn’t fuss about her indulging her inner cyber-goth now and again.