NYFW Show Report: Reed Krakoff

18 February 2010

When a designer premieres their first ever Ready to Wear collection, you don't usually expect to see the front row glitterati and cognoscenti out in full force. That's clearly not the case for Reed Krakoff . But then he's not exactly a fashion school graduate cutting his teeth on the catwalk.

Having been both President and Executive Creative Director of luxury accessories company COACH for a good many years, he's really more of a multi-tasking design veteran, than a green-behind-the-ears runway hopeful. And the eagerly anticipated 'debut' of his signature line did not disappoint.

Lets face it, Mr. Krakoff isn't exactly short of a bob or two - (his Manhattan mansion reportedly sold recently for somewhere in the region of $52 million). However , his target customer isn't exactly on the bread line either.  But even they are looking for a little more 'bang for their buck' in these economically trying times, so he was very savvy to focus on 'investment' pieces with a modern, minimalist edge that screamed status without all of the ostentation.

In a nutshell, this was utilitarian chic at its most luxurious and one which also possessed an extraordinary ease and wearability (provided, of course, that you can afford the price tag). The oversized chunky sweaters , voluminous pants and generously proportioned outerwear, all with military accents, were a refreshing break from the relentless, high-hemmed body consciousness that has become 'de rigeur' of late.

Forgiving silhouettes in faithful shades of olive, moss, chalk, navy and loden green - colours confidently borrowed from an earthy, bucolic pallette - will prove  to be completely at ease within the more urban environment of this brands potential clientele. Shades of petrol, cobalt and midnight blue - three of the seasons emerging signature shades - added a welcome extra dimension to the pallette.

There were a multitude of standout pieces but I feel I simply have to mention a gorgeous, sleeveless taupe suede coat; a tobacco nappa leather maxi wrap skirt with military accents;  and a midnight-blue leather full length dress complete with racer back .........

but frankly the list is endless and i could go on and on ........

I truly hope Mr. Krakoff can replicate the enormous success of his accessories empire with this fresh, modern, chic RTW line. Class and exquisite taste can be hard to come by these days and they should surely be rewarded.  

- Andrew Holden in New York


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