18 February 2010

NYFW Show Report: Proenza Schouler

Right now Proenza Schouler are probably the hottest ticket in town: the boy wonders (or should that be boys wonder) of New York fashion.
Like other bright lights in that big city, they distinguish themselves because they have a very clear point of view. You never leave a Proenza Schouler show wondering what it was all about. Even if you didn’t like it you can sum it up in a few snapshots.

This one was about short, full skirts; shrunken jackets; nipped waists; skinny printed jeans; and a bubble skirted silhouette for evening.

School girlish duffles in boiled wool hit mid-thigh, where stocking tops ended, and were worn with chunky almost clog-like high heels.

Those coats evolved into versions that were cropped to the waist with almost couture style boat necks and narrow shoulders. Worn with skinny pants, it was all about long lean legs and narrow shoulders. Worn with full, flared short skirts they created a girlish double A line silhouette. That A line dropped from the narrow shoulder to thigh for jacquard silk evening dresses that were both girlish and sophisticated. And the famous Proenza prints took the form of a black and white abstract that was worked through cotton poplin and knit dresses.

It takes a very flat stomach to handle those skinny trousers. But the shrunken A line jackets can be anyone’s. When the waiting list opens, I’m on it.

- Paula Reed in New York


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