Derek Lam does luxury: unashamedly so. He dresses an uptown woman who yearns for a little fashion edge to give her classics some fashion attitude. No wonder that he works with the Tod’s group. This is a man with a feeling for understated glamour. And for his new collection there were pieces that his customer will love to have: the leather and chiffon kilt skirts, the felted wool coats with deep shawl collars, the motocross leather jeans (an edgey alternative t the classic leather jeans), the chunky handknits and skinny flared pants, and the silk blouses. You could pull this collection apart and find endlessly covetable pieces for the woman who has everything but could always find room for a bit more. What was a little confusing was the urban cowirl themes that ran through the styling. I am not convinced that a prairie theme will fly, especially in a city that seems to be in the grip of girlish romance.
The draped jersey evening wear was quite another matter however. The scooped, cowl necked, floor length gowns had almost a t shirt ease and were clear winners.
-Paula Reed in New York