16 February 2010

NYFW Show Report: Halston

I feel so sorry for models at static presentations. Standing still and looking alluring for two hours in impossible heels while being poked and prodded and photographed by the drive-by audience, can’t be fun. At Halston, at least some of them got to lie down, but when your bed is a mirrored curve, it’s debatable who got the best deal.
 
This is Marios Schwab’s first season as designer at Halston. The house has been in a holding pattern while waiting for a new creative director. In the meantime, the second and more competitively priced line, Halston Heritage has gathered a head of steam selling iconic jersey dresses. It now has Sarah Jessica Parker as an investor and board member.
 
It falls to Marios to draw the main Halston line out of the shadows. His first highly-anticipated collection was a respectable debut. With the Heritage line clearly referencing the past, Schwab seems to be intent on projecting into the future.
 
Jersey remained a signature element but short jersey dresses had a sculptural quality, almost like armour. An intricately-beaded toga-skirted dress looked almost gladiatorial. Another with multi-straps looked more breastplate than bodice.
 
The quality of finish on the long jersey evening dresses (a Halston staple) let the ideas down. Halston had a knack of making things look simple and effortless. We all know there is no such thing. But some of these dresses looked like they were more work than play.   

- Paula Reed in New York


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