07 October 2009

PFW: RM by Roland Mouret

After last night’s live streaming at McQueen, we were yet again under intense scrutiny by no less than 28 cameras at the RM by Roland Mouret Spring/Summer show. Okay, so it’s not all about us… the cameras were actually there to film the set up, show, and backstage activity - which will be broadcast in one week’s time via fashionair.com.

Across the fluorescent, strobe-lit catwalk came look after look that had me scribbling ‘personal order’ all over my show notes. Top of the list were the mannish short sleeved shirts, in steel blue or mustard, worn with stretch silk pleated shorts or skirts; a navy and gold embossed silk dress, belted with a zip front, and an ivory silk dress with an asymmetric tuck detail. There were the RM signature: draped, body-skimming dresses and sharp tailoring with fan-pleat detailing. For Spring the designer challenged himself to create “something multifunctional from the simplest of things – a square of fabric”, which resulted in the Carre style, worn two ways – either a panier skirt or a draped top. Strange as it sounds, it definitely works… so I’ve added that to the personal order too.

- Charlie Miller in Paris


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