PFW Show Report: Jean Paul Gaultier

05 October 2009

You always know what to expect in a Jean Paul Gaultier show. He will do some army stuff, some silken sporty gear, extreme denim pieces, corsets and bra's. Pointy pyramid shaped ones, mostly. That poke out sharply from under jackets, or that he pops over other tops. Then of course, he will do some of his signature Breton stripe T-shirts, and some fierce , tough girl tailoring. A Jean-Paul show wouldn't be a Jean-Paul show without a perfectly tailored double-breasted jacket or two either. But the question every season is always - how he will mix it all up? With what colours? What mood? Sometimes the JPG blend doesn't quite hit the vibe of the season, but this time Monsieur Gaultier is singing from the same line sheet as the majority of Paris designers. Or is it that they are singing from the same sheet as him? Whatever it is - and we suspect it is the latter - his sporty luxe with military mood and lots and lots of bra's and corsets to go with hit the fashion nail right on the head for SS10.

This was a fun show. Janet Jackson sat front row and nodded along to Neneh Cherry's Buffalo Stance and Salt n Pepa's Push It on the soundtrack with a riff of her brother Michael's I'm Bad thrown in for good measure. This collection saw the Breton top come out cut to pieces along the stripes and re-wrapped around the body as tops and tight short skirts. Sports luxe came out as silken orange racer-back long dresses with pointy satin orange bras underneath. Corset mini-skirts were morphed with loose long silk skirts for a bodycon goes loose and long look, that was fresh. As always accessories were piled on, armfuls of leather gauntlets formed of brightly coloured leather strips clung to slim arms, and there were berets aplenty cocked artfully sideways.

Our favourite bit, though, was the finale. All the clothes worn throughout the show were stripped off, and the models trooped out to end the show, in the brightly coloured, sporty corsetty inspired underwear in an array of primary colours and pale neutrals that made us all take to our notebooks one more time. AHA so that's what they were wearing underneath!


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