PFW Show Report: Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci

05 October 2009

The Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci spring summer show opened with what is probably the most wanted jacket of the season. The moans of desire were clearly audible from front row to standing room and carried on throughout countless Paris dinners last night. It was a matelot stripe sharp shouldered jacket cut with a nipped in waist, long in the body and worn over really soft jersey low slung pants. Oh God it was gorgeous. Get in line, honey….the queue has starts here. The tailored story evolved into minimalist origami panelled shifts (black and white) and then exploded into a mind boggling exuberance of geometric ethnic printed, pleated, frilled layers. Short A line dresses, mini skirts and swingy jackets were layered over printed leggings and tights. Talk about a head to toe look: this was couture camouflage. Back in the day when the chicest city apartments were big on African tribal printed fabrics, this outfit would have blended in seamlessly. Things settled down again with delicately draped toga dresses trimmed with vintage looking sequined embroideries. And the climax came with the black and white appliqué lace dresses tottering over the impossible high wedges that had all the shoe queens in a complete lather. All of this with a heart pounding Beethoven soundtrack was about as much excitement as a girl can handle on a Sunday afternoon.

Our five favourite things:

1. The opening matelot stripe jacket and soft trousers

2. The flesh coloured drape dresses

3. The sequin ‘shell’ embroideries

4. The African prints

5. The appliqué lace dresses



- Paula Reed in Paris


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