05 October 2009

PFW Show Report: Dries Van Noten

By now, if you have been paying attention, it should be clear that there is definitely something tribal in the air for summer 2010. It started in NY with a hint of kenteh in the prints at Proenza Schouler, moved into full blown ikat at Gucci in Milan and as Paris hits its stride, is re-surfacing as clearly identifiable influences behind Issey Miyake and even the uber urban Balenciaga. But, leave it to Dries Van Noten to make sense of it in a way that doesn’t require a complete re-working of your look. I love the way Dries sees womens’ wardrobes as an evolving collection for which he proposes irresistible additions every season. It all works together. A piece from Dries this season will make perfect sense worn with a piece from a decade ago. And Dries girls take a justifiable pride when they say ‘oh this old thing……’ The prints, the embroideries, the gentle shapes, the eclectic vintage feel of it all, gives a Dries piece instant heritage value as opposed to being a status symbol for one season only. So, it makes perfect sense for Dries Van Noten to explore the classic eclecticism of tribal and ethnic print and embroideries. Balinese sarongs were worn as wrapped skirts. Boxy emerald silk jackets had tone on tone Chinese embroideries. Heavily beaded shirts went with soft washed out looking chino pants. And to add a pleasing urban sophisticated edge20 to the whole look, the jewellery was very 1970s nightclub: chunky collars of semi precious beads hung with metal pendants.

Our Five Favourites:

1. The sarong skirts

2. Ikat print wrap dresses

3. Chinese silk jackets and chinos

4. The chunky necklaces

5. Scarf print silk twill shirt jackets


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