03 October 2009

PFW Beauty Report: Martin Margiela's paper makeup

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Wowza-Martin Margela. Imagine a backstage area where all the dressers and assistants have to wear white lab coats like a science laboratory trying to make a medical breakthrough. Apparently this is standard practice backstage at Martin Margela, but as press aren't normally allowed backstage (the make-up and hair teams are shocked at our presence: 'how did you manage to get through?') it was a bizarre scene unfolding. Inge Grognard for MAC explained what was in store. "We took a photo of each model with her eye make-up done (eyeliner and thick lashes), and then we printed that photo onto tracing paper. We then tore out the relevant piece of the 'paper eye make up' and applied it back onto the real model's face".

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Thick paper lashes were also applied to the eyes, so the effect was very cartoony and 3D, and when the girls blinked, it flashed the white surface of the back of the paper; "it's trompe l'oeil". Lips were paled down so that the eyes became the key feature that would be highlighted with the two travelling spotlights on the catwalk lighting the girls while the rest of the room stayed pitched black.

martin margiela

Tomo Hiro for Bumble and Bumble created 'just woken up' hair so each girl was individual. If they had afro, curly or straight hair it stayed the same accept "straight hair was harder and more aggressive" with back brushing and texturised using Surf Spray, Holding Spray and Grooming Cream. A selection of girls had tabs of scotch tape on different sections of their hair like they had just rolled over on to it (yowza, not sure this will catch on!), but it caught the light perfectly. What models have to go through eh... We wouldn't want to be pulling that scotch tape out of their hair afterwards!

For more of the backstage scoop and all the latest fashion from Paris Fashion Week, click here.

- Lauren Murdoch Smith in Paris


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