02 October 2009

PFW show report: Nina Ricci’s French romance

Only 70 editors were invited last night, to see the debut collection from Nina Ricci’s new artistic director, Peter Copping. English-born Peter, a graduate of Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art, was at Louis Vuitton for 12 years, acting as Marc Jacobs’ right hand man. At Ricci he takes over the design spot from Olivier Theyskens, who left earlier this year, after much speculation and rumours about the renewal of his contract. It was thought that Peter wouldn’t get to grips with a full catwalk presentation until the AW ’10 season, showing in March, but clearly he was ready for something earlier…although perhaps tentatively judging by the teeny tiny venue (in comparison to the 300 seaters). But he needn’t have worried.

Where Olivier liked to do pained romance, with a little bit of teenage rebellion thrown in for good measure, Peter has played his first collection a bit straighter. Romantic for sure, but feminine and purely French – from the lace ruffles of ‘can-can’ girls, to the champagne shades he used throughout. From elaborate lace evening dresses, to cute and commercial twinsets, through perfect belted coats, there is something for every age and every style within Peter’s first intimate showing. It’s a promising start, and after working under the Louis Vuitton umbrella for over a decade, he knows exactly how to power up a heritage brand. We can’t wait to see what he plans next.

- Kay Barron in Paris


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