The Dior show started with suitable drama – Galliano loves to bring the drama. Sirens wailing, brakes screeching, the noise of heels on a staircase then… gun fire and screams. It was the soundtrack of a film noir thriller, setting the scene as silhouettes of 1930s gangsters holding machine guns were projected against a whitewashed industrial set, swirly with dry ice.
Dita von Teese sat in the FROW (alongside Bruce Willis, Rhianna and Leigh Lezark), and this show was essentially the burlesque star’s shopping list; the clothes of 1920s femme fatales; Lauren Bacall and Marlene Dietrich; all finger waved hair and red lipstick.
There were tightly-belted trenches, and sharp tailoring, but mostly there was lingerie; slip dresses in Prince of Wales check or pinstripes were finished with lace to look like negligees, satin cami-knicker shorts and petticoats peeped out from under sharp jackets. It was old fashioned sexiness, from a slower time, pulled into the modern day with glittery ankle socks worn with amazingly cool wedge shoes.
A fuschia dress with a black lace overlay was worn with black glittery ankle socks and matching shocking pink wedges. Purple satin tap pants flashed beneath the hem of a beautiful black lace trench, and a section of babydoll dresses were irresistible; from a shocking pink fuschia style, to Chanel Iman in a gorgeous floral baby doll with black lace trim. A foxy belted scarlet dress with a chiffon top revealed a black bra beneath.
It was a beautiful collection; shades of lipstick red and face powder nude. Galliano promised his transparent lingerie - lame, lace, tulle and chiffon - would bring a new “feminine fragility to the Dior Heroine”. But next season’s bag is a boxy Dior attaché case, and who knows what a gangster’s moll keeps in that..
- Kay Barron in Paris