28 September 2009

MFW show report: Moschino's Greatest Hits

 

The 80’s revival continues in Milan and nobody understands the power-shouldered decade like Moschino. The label was founded by michievous designer Franco Moschino in 1984, and his witty chic designs took the key emblems of decade's street style - slogans, CND emblems, trompe l'oeil designs - and put them on the catwalk. Moschino passed away in 1994, and now Rosella Jardini is creative director but for Spring 2010 Moschino's cheeky spirit was alive and well on the catwalk.
 
The show started with an ironic homage to the French bourgeoisie; all pearl-edged jackets, classic skirt suits and little black dresses, worn with gold hoop earrings, gold chains and 15 denier sheer tights with gold shoes – yuppie bling.
 
But it wasn’t all work and no play; picked up throughout the show was the odd slogan t-shirt; very Frankie Says Relax, (even if they actually said Niente – “nothing”), and an amazing black leather biker jacket completely encrusted in gold military medals and badges.
 
Moschino's most beloved style signature; the trompe l’oeil was used on little black dress printed in white stitching to suggest lapels, pockets and a belt, and the back to front tuxedo dresses.
 
A patterned section included cherry prints, mix and matchy scarf dresses, puff ball skirts, and halterneck ruched minidresses. Fun, frivolous and foxy, this compilation cassette of a collection should have been called Now That's What I Call The Eighties - aka Moschino’s Greatest Hits.

- Charlie Miller in Milan


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