28 September 2009

MFW show report: Gucci

 

This week it was rumoured that former Gucci designer Tom Ford was seeking investment to start a womenswear ready-to-wear label. Ford put Gucci at the top of every woman’s wishlist in the 90s, by creating sexy disco-centric clothing; all black skinny trousers and laced up pencil skirts, skinny python clutch bags, skinny heels, skinny logo buckle belts… you get the idea.

The catwalk at Gucci today seemed to be channelling a little of Ford’s super-sexy spirit. Shiny, skinny, dark, sharp, it was so completely Ford through and through that it was hard to recall that it is in fact Frida Giannini who is currently creative director at Gucci. In past seasons she has softened the image of the Gucci vixen, producing floral print satin blouses, and floaty maxi dresses to go with the house’s recently-launched pretty Flora perfume. But today it was a harder-edged Gucci girl who stalked the catwalk in body con dresses, razor-lapelled tailored jackets, black leggings, pencil skirts and Dynasty power-shouldered metallic blouses, worn with bondage-laced heels, and bright skinny clutch bags.
 
One of the few nods to the Giannini’s softer silhouettes; the long black maxi dresses with an ornate cut out neckline. And there were prints; dresses in a deep cherry red with large spots, an op-art style in black white and fuschia, and some grey and orange aztey-batik madness. There were tight white dresses, and some in - this season’s seemingly ubiquitous  - pale grey. But mostly there was black. And seriously sexy it was too.


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