28 September 2009

MFW show report: Dolce & Gabbana

 

Oh we didn't know where to look first at Dolce & Gabbana. There were banks of plasma screens and at least a dozen cameras suspended above the audience showing front of house and backstage action as it was happening. On one screen, arrivals, seating dramas, the dawdlers and latecomers were unexpectedly riveting. On another, there was Domenico Dolce beavering away on the finer points of editing and accessorising. Lily Donaldson was getting her hair done. Natasha Poly was in makeup. Back in the audience, a tight lipped looking Anna Wintour was flanked on the front row by bloogers Bryan Boy and Tommy Ton. They had been set up by the press office with their own computer tables either side of the woman who is rumoured to have banned the word 'blog' from the office. Hark! Is that the sound of barbarians at the gate I hear?

All of this before the show had even started. Top entertainment! Dolce & Gabbana had a live feed of it all going out on You Tube with a link to GraziaDaily. But for those of you who weren't paying proper attention, here is what we loved from this barnstorming show.

It opened with mannish tango suits: tuxedo sharp with soft jodphur trousers. Androgyny is at the heart of the dolce & Gabbana handwriting but apart from these few suits we were quickly whisked on to pneumatic femininity, scicilian style. White lace shifts were layered over black corsets. Black satin trellis dresses were also layered over corseted body suits and had faux demure knotted cardies over the top.

Transparency extended to fishnet trench coats and even fishnet booties. And the corsets came thick and fast with tiers of silky fringe. Colour came in the hot tropical floral prints. Roses on satin bloomer shorts and fitted jackets. And few Dolce & Gabbana shows are complete without a bit of leopard prowling around. This season the leopards were saved for last and appeared in slinky red printed jersey evening gowns. Topped off with a Grace Jones soundtrack, Amado Mio, it was an old-fashioned fashion moment. In this economy, that's an endangered beast and Stefano and Domenico deserve praise for maintaining their two man conservation programme.

What we loved:
White lace over black bodies
Fishnet trench and booties
Silk fringed coat
Red leopard cocktail dress
Rafia basket weave corset dress


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