MFW report: Christopher Kane for Versus

28 September 2009

Last season the fashion pack went crazy for Christopher Kane's bags, shoes and jewellery for Donatella Versace's Versus line. Spring 2010 is his first season producing a full ready to wear collection for Versus, and last night in Milan he showed it in a presentation at the Versace Theatre (yes, they’ve got their own theatre, so do Dolce and Gabbana, and Giorgio Armani, which they use as the venue for their catwalk shows).

This time, Kane's clothes were presented in a simple, static presetnation, with the models sitting and standing on podiums.
As we're seeing a lot in Milan, this was an all-dress collection - no trousers in sight. The palette was equally focused, just three colours: red, black and putty. The dresses were short and sharply cut in a mix of silk, metal, lace and laser-cut neoprene, with sexy heels in the same colour-ways. The only flat shoes were a pair of sharp Chelsea boots with a dull metal chain, similar to ones that appeared in the designer's accessories collection last season.

Kane is said to have been a huge fan of Versus, Versace's younger, lower-priced label, when he was growing up in Glasgow in the 90's. And he liberally scattered the dresses, bags and shoes with Versace's iconic motifs - from mega safety pinned brooches (a la Liz Hurley), to 'lions' heads, all in coloured aluminium. Donatella would have been proud, the aesthetic perfectly captured her distinctive tough-yet-romantic vibe, or as Donatella herself put it "Versus is the rock n roll soul of Versace."

- Charlie Miller in Milan


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