23 September 2009

LFW show report: Roksanda Ilincic goes glamorous

To the Liberal Club and the suitably romantic looking David Lloyd George Room for Roksanda Ilincic’s show. A dreamy elegance that is reminiscent of 30’s and 40’s heroines is at the heart of her style signature and  it all looked right at  home in the magnificent Arts and Crafts venue.

For openers, peach charmeuse (was there ever a more seductive fabric?) lapped the hips in long bias-cut dresses which were given some moody attitude with some major shoulder pads. Second skin corset dresses were given a 3-D, almost sculptural quality, with layers of peach and satin. Come summer you need to be ready to get your pinks out, ladies. London and NY are so far in agreement that it is the colour of the season.

I adored the ice blue and aqua gown trimmed with a tiny edge of black tulle. And the airy linen A -line dress hitched up at the hem and sent out in a vivid Caribbean blue was to die for.

The extreme shoulders that got more and more outrageously large as the show progressed were less convincing. But the molten metallics: bronze lamé and warm golden gilts, were classic Ilincic glamour which is most powerful when it is subtle and understated. Ear high shoulders trimmed with jet black feathers were in a different league.

But, apart from that one piece, this was a fabulously glamorous show and the obvious question is, why don’t we see more Roksanda on the red carpet? Come on Tilda... it’s perfect for you.

FIVE THINGS WE LOVED:

  1. The mosaic and feather embroidered satin shifts
  2. The pleated peg trousers
  3. The long bronze lame gown
  4. The aqua and ice blue charmeuse gown
  5. The bold blue linen A line shift

- Paula Reed


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