Moving on from last season’s digitally printed silks and Louis XIV inspired powdered wigs, design duo Bruno Basso and Christopher Brooke came up trumps yesterday with their collection of ruffled silk dresses and metallic separates. Inspired by the rich visuals of Jeff Koons and Herb Ritts, the pieces were described as raw neo-pop creations which combined hyper-realistic retro prints and darker contemporary undertones.
Basso and Brooke’s Spring/Summer girl is decidedly sexier than the pastel colour palettes of old might suggest, with slicked-back hair and dark berry lips complementing vibrant explosions of fuchsias, oranges and blues. The pared down silhouettes were testament to the new season’s real wearability, with easily commercialised strapless cinched-in dresses and sheer panelled fitted shifts making their way down the catwalk to rapturous applause (FROWer extraordinaire and ex-Destiny’s Child member Michelle Williams was a huge fan.) Highlights included a pair of metallic black harem jumpsuits and sculpted gold lame jacket, an asymmetric printed shift with sheer nude panelling, and the two silk georgette finale pieces that combined a sharp silhouette with fluid folds of double organza at the bust. A strong collection to lead us into a new season, and one which really made its mark on an impressive London Fashion Week roster.
- Katie Jackson