There is no second guessing Christopher Kane. That’s the sheer joy of going to a Kane show because you really never know what you’re going to get. Each season he changes his style, not based on trends, but just because he keeps moving in a different direction and it feels right to him. He has the fashion world at his feet, and they turned out in force to support him. Sir Philip Green, Donatella Versace (wearing Kane’s Versus accessories), Natalia Vodianova, Anna Wintour and even London’s big-shoulder muse of the season…Joan Collins, were front row and ready to be surprised. First the Scot showed a series of checked dresses in powder blue, pale pink, fawn, navy and lemon yellow, all falling to the knee, but still managing to be hugely flattering. Skirts were either pleated or split to expose the legs, stopping the collection from becoming too prim. Corsetry and lingerie detailing are probably why Christopher himself described it as ‘a bit pervy’, but he also name-checked Lolita, First Ladies and The Brady Bunch as influences (although he has a habit of making these up to wind up fashion journalists, he probably just liked check this season)! He finished the show with beaded dresses (he is all about the dress for SS ’10) in pastel tones, reminiscent of saris, and there was even a little bit of tailoring thrown in to give the collection a harder edge.
- Kay Barron