22 September 2009

LFW report: Marios Schwab

This was a big show for Marios Schwab – the first since the London-based designer was appointed creative director of Halston. All eyes will be watching to see whether he can revive the iconic Seventies brand next season but if today’s show was anything to go by, he’ll be just fine. Inspired by Greek goddesses and Victorian ladies, the key here was the marrying of medieval and modern, romantic and tough. He did it by texture blocking. Sheer fabrics contrasted with metallics, the most striking of which was a dark midnight blue. Soft leopard and jewel prints were layered with chain mail tops over draped chiffon skirts. Traditional shirting shapes had been deconstructed and then reconstructed so they became multi-pieces that, like the rest of the collection, were designed to be mixed and matched. But we liked them the way Marios had constructed them, clearly designing for a female body with hips. He must be the only man at the moment capable of making a modern maxi dress – one that looks fresh, interesting and that’s actually wearable. It’s the stuff modern girls dream of.