Finally Anna Wintour has taken her seat at London Fashion Week. She was up bright and early this morning and was one of the first to arrive at the Meadham Kirchhoff show, sponsored this season by Cotton USA. She sat patiently on her own on the FROW as photographers snapped away and everyone else in the venue craned their necks to get a better look of the US Vogue Editor in Chief. But as soon as the lights went up and Nina Simone drifted from the speakers, all the attention was on the clothes. Immediately it was unmistakeably MK. Cropped jackets were layered over loose jersey tees, shredded chiffon and silk ‘peasant’ skirts were layered and combined with other fabrics and prints. Voluminous shapes billowed beautifully on the back of jackets and the side of skirts, creating unusual silhouettes. All their signatures were there, the slashed knee denim and the cult cotton shirts, except this time they looked elegant and not grungey, layered with fine-knits. We have come to expect a dark colour palette from the boys over the last few seasons, and while black, navy and white were the call of the day, they surprised us all with blush and lemon silks, but it was their structured raspberry and rose pink crystal t-shirts which we expect may be the most in demand pieces of the collection for buyers. Jeweller Jordan Askill collaborated on the footwear and the accessories, as the MK duo loved the idea of precious jewellery on the shoes. They asked him for something birdlike and spikey, which is exactly what they got. Every pair of the black patent brogues that accompanied the looks were finished with a flock of small silver birds on the heel. While the final model wore a tiara of them in her hair. This was a romantic collection, but full of utility details, as harness straps and buckles emerged from bunched silks and chiffons. While we couldn’t see Anna’s reaction, we can safely say that Meadham Kirchoff was the perfect place to start and it’s going to be hard to top it.
- Kay Barron