Before squeezing into our seats at Mary Katrantzou's packed-out third catwalk season, we had a sneaky peek backstage, where we found her team still frantically sewing on crystals and taking in seams. We scurried back to our seats, a little worried that the collection might never make it out in time. But our fears proved to be unfounded. The first look was such a sudden explosion of colour and print that anyone still sleepy from the fashion parties of the night before would have instantly felt wide awake.
A vibrant swirling intergalactic printed shift dress, it set the tone for the collection. For Summer 2010, Mary K is all about psychedelic waves, asymmetric hems and crystal-encrusted detailing (each crystal had to be hand-sewn, so at least six people were working on each piece, hence the last minute meltdown backstage). Katrantzou is also moving on from her simple shift shapes; the time bustier dresses were swathed in organza, a new fabric for the Greek designer to play with. And dresses with sexy back and thigh slits, continued the strong for trend for cut-outs already coming through for next season.
To finish off the collection’s glorious rainbow of colour, shoe goddess Charlotte Olympia daubed sandals with nail polish (we’ve done that before, but never as a design statement..)
And for a final wake-up call, gigantic Venetian-style glass jewellery popped against Katrantzou's eye-boggling fabrics.
If anything will get the fash pack out of black layers, this is it.