19 September 2009

HOT FUSS! Emilio de la Morena's show!

Compiling Grazia’s Summer Best Dressed list last month, one designer’s name kept coming up – Emilio de la Morena. Gossip Girl Leighton Meester wore his edgy cut-out black dress to a recent awards show, designer/model Ben Grimes has already declared herself ‘a huge fan’, and hip Brit Alexa Chung also owns tons of his stretchy sexy pieces. Basically, there’s a hot fuss surrounding the Spanish-born designer, and there has been ever since his debut collection, all svelte silhouettes in ivory, pale pink and cobalt blue, was bought by Browns Focus.

So there was a healthy buzz of anticipation at his debut catwalk show (his first on the schedule) at London Fashion Week yesterday. Nice when there’s an air of expectation about the clothes, and not the celeb turn-out (which, fyi, was zero). Morena describes his clothes as ‘sculptural chic,’ but for summer 2010, he promised more fluidity, feminism and romanticism (as we saw in New York it’s all about pwetty pwetty right next season) and boy, did he deliver.

The Morena woman is modern and sexy but super-classy. This season his signature body-con tailored dresses were overlaid with soft aprons and peplums of printed chiffons, or strips of crepe-paper streamers, encircling the body. The delicate colour palette of whites, nude and lilac represented his “newfound softness” perfectly, even if some of the other colour combinations were a little more offbeat (does anyone really need a gherkin green dress, especially one with a ribbed camel poloneck underlayer?).

The super-skinny trousers, zipped up the back to behind-the-knees cut outs, were a tougher sexy, and the short-sleeved sparkly bomber jackets, were genius –  they looked like leather, but were plasticised jersey, overlaid in tulle.

Morena has earned the fuss surrounding his name. The show was so good in fact, that Grazia almost didn’t find time to drool over the shoes by Charlotte Olympia – nude leather cut outs with mint or pink metallic heels. Almost.

- Angela Buttolph


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