15 September 2009

NYFW S/S 10 report: Thakoon

thakoon

I loved the shoes at Thakoon! Particularly the suede heels cut in Chinese lantern strips. But I expected a bit more than good shoes from a young man who has given Michelle Obama some of her most memorable outfits over the last year and who had a pretty amazing cameo role in The September Issue (for those who spent their summer on Christmas Island, that would be the docu-soap about the making American Vogue’s biggest ever fashion issue).

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He is a hot ticket at New York Fashion Week. And from a hot ticket fashion designer you do expect to see something you haven’t seen before. You certainly shouldn’t be able to use last season’s collections from other designers as shorthand. The tropical brights, edged in black, surfer style were a bit Michael Kors and the layered and layered clashing techno prints were very Balenciaga.

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But there were a few gems. I loved the flesh coloured dresses (now there’s an emerging hot trend) made from plisse georgette laid over a corseted base and the scarf twill jacquard print silk dress was classic Thakoon. Couldn’t see much that might appeal to Mobama, except maybe the indigo woven cropped jacket with piped seams that she might sling over a favourite dress but, honestly, it sat oddly in a collection of too try hard clothes.

- Paula Reed in New York

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