When Jean Paul Gaultier chooses a theme he really goes for it. Yesterday at Hermès he paid homage to the pioneers of aviation – complete with giant spinning propellers on the catwalk. The silhouette was pure Amelia Earhart: short blousons with patch pockets and hoods, trousers tapered tight at the ankle, masculine shirts with ties, zipped up all-in-ones and elegant evening dresses in dark satins. JPG was referencing the first clothing pieces Hermès ever designed at the end of the 1920s. And it worked. We wanted to wear everything – yes, even the aviator goggles! We did feel for old-school supermodel Tatiana Patitz though. She stumbled three times on what should have been her triumphant catwalk return and looked so upset that Jean Paul Gaultier had to give her a bracing hug at the end of the show.
WHAT WE LOVED
The clever contrasts of volume: chunky knit over long backless dress, or giant knit with wraparound hood over tapered skirt
The new Birkin bag: trompe l'oeil open straps and tags embossed on it
The silvery grey knit with chainmail effect
Aviator hats on every model: leather for day and satin for evening looks
Amazing accessories: lace-up croc heels, dog-collar belts, thigh-high velvet goatskin boots
- Charlie Miller