10 March 2009

VIDEO: Giambattista Valli's sophisticated glamour

To Giambattista Valli, or Giamba as he is known to his friends, the customary glamathon was toned down to something much more restrained. It's a reason to be cheerful when designers manage to negotiate the current economic crisis with a realistic and yet still dreamy proposition. If luxury can survive this economic endgame, then we can be sure that just about anything can happen. And Giambattista's show was full of siren calls to well-heeled shoppers.

The fabrics and silhouettes were vaguely reminiscent of Yves Saint Laurent's smash hit 1970s Oriental collection. Ballerina-length bell-shaped skirts were cinched in with tasselled macramé belts and worn with riding boots. Coats were either of the short A-line pea coat variety or funnel-necked with gently billowing sleeves and cocoon-shaped skirt. The colours were a seductive mixture of peacock, petrol and teal blues, brick reds and tango oranges. Combinations of black and midnight blue, or dark brown and navy, or brick red and cream plus the shimmering lamés that seemed to change under the light, all contributed to a sophisticated glamour for a grown-up customer.

FIVE THINGS WE LOVED

The stiletto heeled riding boots

Trapeze-line orange tunic over skinny black pants

The peacock blue one-shouldered jersey evening dress

The brick red satin peasant blouse over cream evening skirt

All the lamés

- Paula Reed

Get the lowdown on every key show from Paris Fashion Week: eco-chic at Stella McCartney, Pammy at Vivienne Westwood, ladies at Lanvin, decadence at Dior, super-fierce ladies at Givenchy, love at Loewe, taking the mickey at Jeremy Scott, clouds at Margiela, extreme silhouettes at Gareth Pugh, eighties inspiration at Balenciaga sheer elegance at Rochas, Balmainia at Balmain, snow queens at Rick Owens and shoe shockers at Nina Ricci. Plus don't forget to check back here for the latest reports!


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