10 March 2009

Dries Van Noten’s lesson in colour

It is one thing to show a lot of colour on the catwalk, but it is another to show a total understanding of colour and treat it with the sophistication it deserves. Praise indeed then to Dries Van Noten, who showed a collection of colours you would expect to clash – including combinations of pink, red and copper – but instead complemented each other. The collection was built around the staples – a great coat, perfect dresses, ideal jackets and well-cut trousers and skirts - and each piece could be easily mixed and matched. Slinky cowl-neck silk dresses in aubergine, violet and salmon pink were panelled with delicate black and white floral prints, that gave a pretty edge to the elegant shapes. Likewise, slinky maxiskirts were paired with simple jumpers and woven collar-piece necklaces, which showed an alternative way to wear what is traditionally thought of as an evening skirt. After all, we will want to get the most out of new purchases this winter. The show pieces were kept equally subtle, but made their point just as strongly. A beautiful sparkling silver blazer was effortlessly thrown over a sweater and pair of ‘pyjama' trousers, complete with elastic cuff. While a silver A-line skirt teamed with a salmon jumper instantly became the most coveted colour combo of A/W '09. It was the kind of collection that made us want to throw all our clothes away and start again – and that is quite a rare compliment indeed!

OUR FAVOURITE LOOKS

Pink jacket, red shirt and relaxed copper trousers

Silver blazer paired with green sweater

Violet skirt and green sweater

Silver skirt and salmon pink jumper

Raspberry pink coat, orange shirt and charcoal trousers

Purple dress with black and white panel floral print

- Kay Barron

Get the lowdown on every key show from Paris Fashion Week: statue style at Viktor & Rolf, drama queens at Karl Lagerfeld, old-school at YSL, sophisticated glamour at Valli, eco-chic at Stella McCartney, Pammy at Vivienne Westwood, ladies at Lanvin, decadence at Dior, super-fierce ladies at Givenchy, love at Loewe, taking the mickey at Jeremy Scott, clouds at Margiela, extreme silhouettes at Gareth Pugh, eighties inspiration at Balenciaga sheer elegance at Rochas, Balmainia at Balmain, snow queens at Rick Owens and shoe shockers at Nina Ricci. Plus don't forget to check back here for the latest reports!


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