Riccardo Tisci went uber-luxe in a show that was black and white with the teensiest hint of pinky-grey lace somewhere halfway through. Sinuous dresses with one long sleeve, one bare arm, capped shoulders stuffed with raffia, curving peplums and thigh-high slits were worn over ostrich-trimmed and zipped stilettos. The Givenchy customer this season is suitably fine and ladylike, as befits one of France's most venerable couture houses, but with a core of inner steel… more Lara Croft than Lady Who Lunches. Waist-hugging jackets with architectural curves had panels of flowing horse hair. Givenchy did the ubiquitous stud thing, but used chunky metal ones to embroider entire dresses and caped jumpsuits, which simply looked like a workout to me. But the goddess dresses of floaty crepe detailed in plissé trims and ostrich feathers were pure fashion escapism. Unwearable? Unrealistic? Well, watch out for copies of the drapey jersey T-shirts swathed in ropes of jersey-covered beads. And beware pale imitations of the fluid pants which are bound to be everywhere next winter. And the ‘real sized' models, catwalk stars of 10 years ago, invited back for the event, looked way better in these powerful clothes than their wraith-like contemporaries.
FIVE THINGS WE LOVED
The stuffed cap shoulder took some time to love but by the end of the show had definitely grown on me.
The drapey jersey tops with ropes of jersey covered beads and fluid trousers.
The ostrich feather boots and crocodile shoes.
The floor-length white goddess dresses.
The ‘real sized' (ie 10, maybe 12) older models.
- Paula Reed
Get the lowdown on every key show from Paris Fashion Week: love at Loewe, taking the mickey at Jeremy Scott, clouds at Margiela, extreme silhouettes at Gareth Pugh, eighties inspiration at Balenciaga sheer elegance at Rochas, Balmainia at Balmain, snow queens at Rick Owens and shoe shockers at Nina Ricci. Plus don't forget to check back here for the latest reports!