29 September 2008

Gareth Pugh's Parisian debut

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Gareth Pugh came saw and conquered Paris Saturday night; with a debut show where armour plated super heroines trod the boards in the City of Light's hippest contemporary art museum. Unveiled across from the Eiffel Tower, the completely black and white collection of zippered, articulated and sculptural clothes - think Kurosawa remakes King Arthur and the Knights of the Round Table - won a huge burst of applause. ‘J'adorait. Tres original,' shivered French Vogue editor in chief Carine Roitfeld, as she exited the roof top show space. The Palais de Tokyo was packed with a phalanx of international fashion editors and local Parisian hipsters to witness the Continental coming-out of Sunderland-born Pugh, who financed his jaunt to France out of the 150,000 Euro endowment he got for winning the Andam Award, fashion's richest prize. ‘I always knew if I won the prize, it was Paris here we come,' Pugh told Grazia, post show, as his "mentor" Rick Owens strolled backstage to embrace the Englishman in Paris. Not that Gareth turned into Flash Harry: his set was lit by a series of skinny florescent bulbs, and he kept the same team that has served him so well in London, including DJ Matthew Stone, who brilliantly mixed industrial chords, Silence of the Lambs soundtrack and Portishead on a heady soundtrack.' Loved it! It was so theatrical,' yelped Roisin Murphy, who sat front row with Solange Knowles. Pugh wowed from his opening looks, Amazonian blondes in leggings and tunics with one-meter wide Elizabethan collars; Space Age jumpsuits made of rubberize scales; sequined frock coats for an intergalactic royal court party. Post show, Gareth celebrated his success with rockin' bash in Café Moune, a former lesbian hang-out that is Paris's official after hours club of the moment. As Sapphic lasses, BoomBox regulars, Pigalle poseurs and fashion freaks all grooved to Stone's retro dance mix, Pugh hunkered down in the corner, silently enjoying his success.  Veni, vedi, vici. Check out and rate the key looks below.


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