In between shows yesterday, I made time for a quick visit to the Helmut Lang showroom for a presentation of the summer collection. Imagine how hard it must be to step into the shoes of one of the coolest designers ever. Well Nicole and Michael Colovos have somehow managed it with a look that is both deferential to classic Helmut and individual. I have never seen so many cool jackets at such great prices. I bought four! Yes four! There’s a drapey soft suede cut without a collar, but with sharp shoulders, high in the back and low in front and skinny arms. I made such a fuss about that one they called it the ‘Paula’! Then there is the linen biker jacket cut high at the waist, close to the body and with stretch jersey arms. Snapped that one up to. Then there is something called Ambient Viscose: a drapey crepe that has been used for a hip covering boyfriend jacket that, if it was any softer would be a shirt. Got that too. And there is a lightweight wool jacket that is tuxedo sharp but again without a collar, skinny arms and enough slouch to justify hanging around with hands in your pockets all night. So cool. Think of Nicholas Ghesquière attitude without the hardware, or Rick Owens froideur with a substantial discount and you are getting the idea. What goes with them? A selection of drapey jersey T-shirts: most cut loose in overlapping layers and one a layer of transparent ruched jersey laid over a corset base. And on the bottom half, how about a pair of tailored loose trousers cut in a jersey that looks like wool but feels like sweatpants? Yup, you guessed it. I got a pair of those too.
- Paula Reed in New York