15 September 2009

NYFW S/S 10 show report: Marc Jacobs

marc jacobs marc jacobs

Oh American fashion folk are an excitable lot. Not that we Brits are particularly Zen at fashion shows. But this lot are seriously obsessed. At the door of the Marc Jacobs show I saw a very blonde and very expensively dressed young lady without an invitation, press a large dollar bill into the hands of a security man. Until now I had only ever seen that done in movies. I was amazed. She didn’t get in. I arrived at the door three minutes before the start time (Katie Grand had told me it was running exactly 4 minutes late) and asked for help to find my seat but at just that moment the suited seating attendant was clearly being contacted on her ear piece by some higher power because I only asked her where Block A was and she looked at me wild eyed and said, ‘Jesus CHRIST!’ She was followed by a bunch of men in black who may well spend their days doing really important jobs in national defence with the equivalent of Jack Bauer and CTU but someone should tell them that they don’t have to herd fashion editors with ‘Go, Go, GO PEOPLE!!!’

madonna, gaga, marc jacobs

So I stood at the back with American Vogue’s Andre Leon Talley, Vanity Fair’s Elizabeth Saltzman (and her divinely chic mother) and… Lady Gaga. Yes, that’s right, not even Lady Gaga, Marc’s muse du jour, could get to her seat. For the record, her hair was tied up under a pin wheel black straw hat and metal studded Dick Turpin mask and she wore a cream latex mac. The only people we actually spotted on the front row was Marc’s favourite blogger, BryanBoy, dressed head to toe by the designer and Rachel Zoe. And one woman Marc couldn't turn away was Madonna when she turned up three hours before the show, demanding a ticket. How could he possibly refuse after Madge's starring appearance in his Louis Vuitton campaign?!

bryanboy Rachel Zoe

After that, there was a lot of excitement for the clothes to live up to. Well, as we plough through the credit crunch, Marc Jacobs plainly thinks we should dress up (a lot) more. Think frills, think sparkling lame, think harlequin diamonds, think geisha shoes, think bags with tassles and you are off to a good start. The hair was piled on top of neat, slick heads in tiny knots wrapped in scrunchies (come on, you must have on in the back of some drawer or other). The makeup was Pierrot white. The silhouette was soft and rounded: wide but not sharp shoulders, soft layers and calf length hems. There was a running theme of diamond prints and triangular cut out edges that was faintly reminiscent of Zandra Rhodes. Zig zag printed lines balanced triangular cut-out edges trimmed with tear drop pearls. Curly frills were used to make simple trims to running rampant around trouser legs. Was it Zandra or was it Ziggy (Stardust)? Marc Jacobs is clearly still finding his richest inspiration on stage and in the past.

- Paula Reed in New York

Check out what was happening backstage at Marc Jacobs and for come back daily for the best of New York Fashion Week coverage. Plus, don’t forget to follow us live at the tents on Twitter.


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