Black, white and a dash of silver. Sharp shoulders, a curve skimming the waist, and asymmetric hemlines dipping below the knee. This was designer Francisco Costa's simple recipe for the Calvin Klein A/W ‘09 collection and it was applied to coats, dresses and suits (trousers barely got a look-in). The excitement in this simple repeating pattern from New York's master modernist was in the fabric treatment. From a distance – not much to report. But, up close, a simple jacket could have three or four different materials ingeniously melded together, making rich and luxurious-looking textures. Evening dresses were made from laser-cut wool that looked like space-age lace. It was simple, intriguing and nigh on impossible to reproduce by even the most enterprising copycat. And it was just what a designer collection should be these days: seductively special pieces with a discreet but unmistakable air of exclusivity.
WHAT WE LOVED
The chunky-heeled ankle boots and Mary Janes.
The laser-cut lace.
The figure-skimming coats.
The molten metallics.
The tailoring that was architectural but also fully feminine.
- Paula Reed
Click through to see more looks from the show, and check out our latest New York show reports as SJP and Anna Wintour bonded at Alexander Wang, Marc Jacobs went back to the '80s, Thakoon went over to the dark side, Donna Karan went back to basics, Matthew Williamson upped the glam factor, Rodarte's girls got tough, Marc by Marc Jacobs was the epitome of preppy chic, Michael Kors did serious neon brights, Phillip Lim's girls went all marching band, Proenza Schouler did shape-shifting, Oscar de la Renta was old-school, pre-credit-crunch glamour, and Tommy Hilfiger was classic American.