19 February 2009

Shape shifting at Proenza Schouler

  

Here it's all about the shape. The big news at Proenza Schouler was all in a dropped shoulder, a cropped jacket, a low-waist trouser, a skinny under layer and a chunky shoe. Or the panelled dresses with the softly rounded hips. Or how about the collarless coats in khaki taffeta with softly rounded proportions. Look closer and the simple shapes are made up of intricately engineered panels of fabric – something that looked simple was actually incredibly complicated. This should keep the high street copycats scratching their heads for days....

WHAT WE LOVED

1) The velvet tuxedo trouser with satin side stripe.

2) The tweed corset dress worn over a fine sweater.

3) The purple panne velvet cocktail dress with jagged black waist.

4) The structured jackets: classic motocross, moved on.

5) The urban tweeds.

- Paula Reed

Click through to see other looks from the collection, and check out our latest New York show reports as SJP and Anna Wintour bonded at Alexander Wang, Marc Jacobs went back to the '80s, Thakoon went over to the dark side, Donna Karan went back to basics, Matthew Williamson upped the glam factor, Rodarte's girls got tough, Marc by Marc Jacobs was the epitome of preppy chic, Michael Kors did serious neon brights and Phillip Lim's girls went all marching band.


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