18 September 2008

Armand Basi's warrior women

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Since taking over the Spanish knitwear brand Armand Basi in 2007 designer Markus Lupfer has created a signature style for the label that's all about structure and volume. But this season, Markus has moved the collection on. ‘It's all about monochromatic colours such as black, grey and ivory with an unexpected touch of colour and focusing on the contrast between opaque and transparent,' he told us remarkably calmly when we caught up with him ten minutes before the show was due to start. ‘I was inspired by the 1920s metropolis and architecture but wanted to keep them looking fresh and athletic by keeping lines soft and relaxed.' The result? His signature banana shaped trousers rendered in fuchsia and blue sequins, peplums contrasted with the ivory netting skirts, sheer organza shirts and panelled dresses. So as he watched the girls parade out onto the catwalk, in their delicate armour like suits and march around a pyramid-shaped structure in the middle of the room to a tribal beat, Markus couldn't help but smile. ‘What sets London apart from the rest of the world is the creativity and that something in English design and mentality that is unique to the world,' he buzzed after the show. We couldn't agree more Markus...

-Lily Russo


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