Giles's Fashion Evolution
Giles Deacon's future-facing collections have made his label into a landmark in its own right on the London Fashion Week map. Characteristically a trend setter with a short attention span, it is hard to pinpoint a 'signature look' as such, but he does favour witty prints which are often oversized; - in the past camouflage, pacman or for SS10 huge tarrantulas. He frequently embellishes looks with textural accessories - huge gauntlets dripping in hair, feathered collars or treasure-trove like clanking necklaces. On the runway he is known for outre styling, bordering on the cartoonish; (his name will be forever associated with the computer game Pacman after his SS09 show which featured giant helmets on the models inspired by the graphics). Cannily however, under the traffic stopping fripperies are most often stylish, flattering dresses in feel-good, though not vulgar colours.
In keeping with the whimsical, up-beat nature of hs collections, Mr Deacon, originally from Cumbria, is widely reputed to be one of the most genial figures in fashion. As one might imagine of such a printsmith he is a talented illustrator and says he secured himself the top design job at Italian fashion house Bottega Veneta when boss Laura Moltedo spotted a drawing of Budgerigar driving a Rolls Royce in Deacon's sketchbook. From Bottega Veneta he was head-hunted by Tom Ford and went to design for Gucci. He has also worked for Jean Charles de Castelbajac and Ralph Lauren on thier collections as well as for British high street chain New Look, on his lower-priced collaboration collection, Gold.
In 2009 Giles was selected for sponsorship by ANDAM - France's association for fashion arts and whisked away to show in Paris following in the footsteps of London's brightest luminaries, Galliano, McQueen and lately, Gareth Pugh. For a period he also headed up the House of Emanuel Ungaro - to great reviews, although parted from the company after a couple of seasons. He's since returned to the London schedule, to huge satisfaction of the city's fashionistas.
A close friend since their days of studying together at Central Saint Martins, Katie Grand, the influential stylist and editor in chief of taste-making magazine, LOVE has been able to introduce Giles to some of his past employers, as well as styling his shows and acting, if a as not a muse, as reliable sounding board. When asked to describe Deacon's signature, Grand says: 'I don't think his woman is much of a wallflower. We always knew it would be something quite flamboyant.' 'It's not a difficult aesthetic,' Deacon, for his part, explains. 'My designs are slightly subversive in their way; it can be in the cut, or the colour, but they're always obtainable, Hopefully, if you saw someone wearing one of our frocks you'd think she looks quite interesting to have a chat with and say hello to. They're a bit 'We're on, we're out, we mean business'."