‘We definitely looked at Elizabeth Taylor, that cinematic feel, glamour, mood. The collection was also about beauty and how very luxurious materials make you feel beautiful...’ So says Julie de Libran, women’s creative director at Louis Vuitton, of the autumn/ winter collection for that label.
She should know. She joined the company five years ago and is responsible for designing its ‘icons’ collection as well as cruise and pre-Fall. That’s when she’s not working on the aforementioned main line with Marc Jacobs. ‘I always have to try everything on,’ she continues, ‘and know how it feels to wear it.’ And now she’s modelling the new collection too.
Julie has quite a fashion pedigree. She’s worked with Gianni Versace and Gianfranco Ferré at Dior and was at Prada for 10 years. ‘Ferré was an architect,’ she says. ‘I learnt a lot about pattern-making. Gianni Versace’s work at that time was so rich. At Prada, it was a more industrial way of thinking. It was more about product. Working with Miuccia Prada for a show was about experiments with materials.’
Of Marc Jacobs, she says, ‘We immediately got on so well. It all seemed open, friendly and happy.’
Katie Grand, editor-in-chief of Love magazine and women’s stylist at Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs, who styled these pictures for Grazia, met Julie when they both worked for Prada. According to Katie, ‘Julie is the ultimate Vuitton customer. She’s a good-looking, distinguished, elegant woman, who brings the clothes alive.’
For this latest collection, a woman’s point of view was important. ‘We wanted to do a woman’s wardrobe with a sense that it somehow already existed,’ Katie continues. ‘So everything didn’t look shiny, glossy, new.’
‘We’re very lucky,’ Julie says. ‘On a show, we’re creating and experimenting. We’re quite free. Marc is always pushing you to new places, to do the best you can.’
Fashion Editor: Katie Grand
Photography: Aitken Jolly