02 October 2013

We Meet Marc Jacobs’ Friend And Creative Confidante Julie de Libran - A Fashion Force In Her Own Right

© Aitken Jolly

GALLERY >> Julie de Libran by Fashion Editor Katie Grand and Photographer Aitken Jolly

‘Extraordinaire Feather Embroidered Coat’ Wool and marabou feather, Price on Application; shoes, ‘Dramatic Ankle Strap Sandal’, Hand-waxed baby goat leather, £795

‘This coat has a masculine volume and we’ve embellished it with a degrade of feathers – from grey, to lilac, to purple - and a degrade of sequins underneath,’ says Julie. ‘When you move, the sequins shine in the light.’

© Aitken Jolly

‘Flower Print Scuba Housecoat’, silk blend, £2,091

‘This also has the volume of a men’s coat that goes into a wrap coat. It’s in scuba silk so it has a technical feel and is very round. It’s printed with a flower motif that reminds you of undergarments or pyjamas.’

© Aitken Jolly

Flower Print and Lace Dress, 100% Silk, £2,910; Bag, ‘Pochette Flap PM’, Waxed Crocodile, £12,700

‘This dress is like an extremely glamorous nightgown. For the show, the threads of a the little flowers were hand cut with a razor to give the surface a three-dimensional feel.’

© Aitken Jolly

‘Feather Embroidered Oxford Jacket’, Wool and duck feathers, £3,150, trousers, models own; bag, ‘Cuir Boudoir Lockit Chain’, leather, ?£1,680; shoes, ‘Dramatic Ankle Strap Sandal’,Hand-waxed python leather, £1,120

‘This is cut in a wool jacquard – a classic men’s fabric – and the feathers have been hand cut again to create a flower motif, a pyjama flower. All these delicate little flowers have been placed on one by one.’

© Aitken Jolly

‘Prince of Wales Jacket’, wool blend, £1620; bag, ‘Cuir Boudoir Pochette MM’?Leather,£1,420

‘This is a Prince of Wales check men’s jacket. It’s super classic, super light and in the colours of the collection which we had made. It was worn in the collection with lace. Each piece had that contrast of extremely feminine and masculine.’

On the day that Marc Jacobs' departure from Louis Vuitton is revealed, we celebrate one of the women who have inspired him...

‘We definitely looked at Elizabeth Taylor, that cinematic feel, glamour, mood. The collection was also about beauty and how very luxurious materials make you feel beautiful...’ So says Julie de Libran, women’s creative director at Louis Vuitton, of the autumn/ winter collection for that label.

She should know. She joined the company five years ago and is responsible for designing its ‘icons’ collection as well as cruise and pre-Fall. That’s when she’s not working on the aforementioned main line with Marc Jacobs. ‘I always have to try everything on,’ she continues, ‘and know how it feels to wear it.’ And now she’s modelling the new collection too.

Julie has quite a fashion pedigree. She’s worked with Gianni Versace and Gianfranco Ferré at Dior and was at Prada for 10 years. ‘Ferré was an architect,’ she says. ‘I learnt a lot about pattern-making. Gianni Versace’s work at that time was so rich. At Prada, it was a more industrial way of thinking. It was more about product. Working with Miuccia Prada for a show was about experiments with materials.’

Of Marc Jacobs, she says, ‘We immediately got on so well. It all seemed open, friendly and happy.’

Katie Grand, editor-in-chief of Love magazine and women’s stylist at Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs, who styled these pictures for Grazia, met Julie when they both worked for Prada. According to Katie, ‘Julie is the ultimate Vuitton customer. She’s a good-looking, distinguished, elegant woman, who brings the clothes alive.’

For this latest collection, a woman’s point of view was important. ‘We wanted to do a woman’s wardrobe with a sense that it somehow already existed,’ Katie continues. ‘So everything didn’t look shiny, glossy, new.’

‘We’re very lucky,’ Julie says. ‘On a show, we’re creating and experimenting. We’re quite free. Marc is always pushing you to new places, to do the best you can.’

Fashion Editor: Katie Grand

Photography: Aitken Jolly


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