From Miuccia's Right Hand Man To Jil Sander's Creative Director, We Chart Rodolfo Paglialunga's Fashion Rise

30 April 2014 by

Rodolfo Paglialunga with Ginnifer Goodwin & Anna Wintour at the Vionnet party in April 2010 [Rex]

Back in October it was announced that Jil Sander is leaving her own brand for the third time, due to 'personal reasons.' It has now been revealed that Rodolfo Paglialunga will be the new creative director, with his first collection debuting in the Spring 2015 season.

'I’m deeply honored to have the opportunity to take on this role. I have boundless admiration for the brand as I strongly believe in its pure vision and values,' Paglialunga said to WWD. 'My aim is to carry forward the fusion between sophistication, luxury and innovation and bring the house [to] the next level.'

Jil Sander Group’s CEO, Alessandro Cremonesi, said: 'We are very confident about this decision. We have identified the right talent that with coordinated assets in terms of personality and design skill will be able to raise our creative excellence to achieve new fashion marks.'

Madonna wears Vionnet at the Venice Film Festival

1. He worked for Miuccia Prada for 13 years as womenswear design director...

He said to Grazia Daily about working with Miuccia: 'I was fascinated in many ways. She is able to transform garments in a 'statement': she puts together a skirt and a jumper and makes them become fashion.'

2. He was the creative director of Vionnet...

His first collection for Vionnet was shown in January 2009, then he left in October 2011 after the brand's spring/summer 2012 show. Rodolfo explained to us how he tried to respect the original Vionnet aesthetic in his designs. He said: 'Trying to understand the essence of her work, even if this is extremely difficult for a person like her who has done so much work on the fabrics and the body and the relation between the two.'

Hilary Swanky, Carey Mulligan & Rebecca Hall wear Vionnet on the red carpet [Getty]

3. The likes of Madonna and Carey Mulligan wore his designs...

His first red carpet double Vionnet whammy came when Carey Mulligan and Hilary Swank wore matching Resort 2010 frocks on the same night. It wasn't long before more of Hollywood's leading ladies - Rachel McAdams, Jessica Biel, Rebecca Hall, Marion Cotillard, to name but a few - followed suit by sporting more of that signature sculptural draping. He said to Grazia Daily: 'I love when actresses like Hilary Swank and Carrie Mulligan wear my creations. My garments are for contemporary women who love to play with dresses.'

4. His love of fashion started with his friends' mothers magazines...

Rodolfo grew up in Tolentino and has said: 'I became interested in fashion through the magazines my friends' mothers used to read." He moved to Milan to pursue his career in fashion and studied at the Marangoni Institute, and then went on to work with Romeo Gigli.'

Vionnet's spring / summer 2012 collection

5. His personal style is all about the grey...

He said to Italian Vogue: 'Lately I've been wearing grey only: to match my hair. And it's also a non colour, and at this time in my life it's the only one I love.'

6. His design process begins with thorough research...

He has said: 'First is research: books, film but also exchanging ideas with friends and collaborators. Then there is the production phase: in the office, working on fabrics and silhouettes. In this way the collection takes shape and becomes more and more defined. I think in this work it's necessary to have a method: daily routines, meeting deadlines. You can't wake up one morning and say 'Today I feel inspired and so I'll work, but maybe not tomorrow'. At least I work in this way: inspiration comes through working.'




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