Hussein Chalayan [Rex]
After a relatively calm few weeks, the fashion industry’s frantic game of musical chairs is back in action for the New Year. Following J.W. Anderson’s Loewe appointment, Marco Zanini moving from Rochas to Schiaparelli and the rumours that Marios Schwab is the man behind the mysterious Maison Martin Margiela, comes the news that the Hussein Chalayan shall be taking up an extra post in addition to his eponymous line, as the demi-couture designer for Vionnet...
Vionnet’s first demi-couture range launched this time last year with chairman and creative director Goga Ashkenazi at the helm, but in three week’s time Mr Chalayan will present his first collaboration for the French fashion house during Paris’ revered Couture schedule. 'I'm extremely happy about this collaboration because I think that Hussein is a supertalented, forward-thinking designer,' Ashkenazi tells WWD.
Chayalan Spring/Summer 2014: Can you see parallels with Vionnet's original designs below? [Catwalking]
How will it look? Well, simplicity of line, cerebral concept building, tailoring precision and an emphasis on craftsmanship are all qualities that Hussein shares with the brand’s founder, Madeleine Vionnet. His avant garde and boundary pushing creations have provided many a wow moment on the runway, but rewind 85 years and Madame V was a true innovator of her time. The Parisian couturier dominated the 1930s fashion scene with her Grecian gowns, directional bias cuts and inventive pleated and pin-tucked fabrics.
Vionnet designs from 1935 [Rex]
Suspense and surprise are integral to not only Hussein’s fashion offerings – look closely and you’ll often find that the simplest of jackets is actually anything but - his creations often relate to and rely upon a fully immersive show experience, too. Where would the famous ‘chair dress’ be without the staged process of witnessing models in a furnished room complete who turn their chair covers into frocks? With deft hands for this kind of 360 approach, there’s high hopes for an pioneering Paris moment later this month…
Chalayan Autumn/Winter 2000