The closing day of the Paris haute couture season kicked off with Maison Martin Margiela's Artisanal collection. Very much a fashion insiders' affair, garments are created entirely in house, many of them involving the deconstruction and reconstruction of found vintage pieces that this fashion house, that opened its doors in the late Eighties, has always been known for.
'Since it's founding in 1988, Maison Martin Margiela has collected used - and sometimes new - clothes, accessories and objects from around the world,' the show notes confirmed. 'One of the cornerstones of the Maison's creative expression is resurrecting these vintage pieces and recasting them in a new way that preserves the mark of time.'
M Margiela retired from his own label almost five years ago now having never agreed to a face to face interview. The powers that be here continue to avoid the cult of personality that has dominated the industry for the past 30 years insisting that no single designer is credited with the design direction: to this day, MMM's collections are all presented as a team effort.
It's a refreshingly unconventional approach and the clothes themselves are equally maverick. Take, for example, 5 pocket jeans realised in latex and with swing coats and jackets in that same material to match. Later came Darwinian plant and bird motifs embroidered onto a bustier - it was worn with nothing more haute than blue denim - or at the hem of a trapeze line strapless tulle puff of a dress. Slender columns in dusty coloured silks or black crepe were finished with more flora and fauna.
As always, all models wore masks - the idea is to force the focus onto the clothes - and signature studiously ugly footwear: for autumn MMM proposes platform soled boots in muddy brown and with jewelled spurs.