03 July 2013 by

Couture Fashion Week: Elie Saab's Royal Affair

Elie Saab had queens and princesses in mind for his haute couture collection. It was called A Royal Affair. On a glossy runway bathed in ruby red light out came also ruby red gowns clearly designed to suit all body shapes and generations: floor-length with covered arms for mother, say, strapless and with knee-length bouncing New Look line skirts for daughter. In every case, silks - from diaphanous to more substantial - were heavily jewelled and embroidered.

From red, the colour palette moved onto grey, navy blue and emerald and finally silver, all in sequence and expressing a similar point of view. There was an exposed back here, an asymmetric neckline or one-sleeved design there but the point was clearly not to challenge the customer but accommodate her.

There is a place for such a straightforward mindset. In fact, it explains why Saab has a burgeoning client base. Not every woman who has the money and inclination to wear haute couture aspires to be a living, breathing fashion plate. Instead, she wants her clothes to be beautifully made and for them to fit her every curve.

Saab's is never a collection focused on daywear and this time was no exception, unless it's possible to count a grey silk jumpsuit as appropriate in that context. Even that was encrusted with crystal embroideries from the waist up.

Instead, the emphasis - as always - was on clothes for special occasions: from cocktail parties to balls. And it almost goes without saying that there was also mademoiselle's wedding to consider. With that in mind out came Saab's bride in shimmering silver, her ultra-long train carried by three equally twinkly bridesmaids.

** This page will be updated with catwalk shots as soon as they arrive **


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