Given an haute couture season where a certain realism has been upheld Giorgio Armani was in his element when he showed his Armani Prive collection in Paris to guests including Sofia Loren, Jared Leto, Kate Hudson and Juliette Binoche.
It’s all too easy to forget the impact this famous Italian designer’s relaxed and neutrally hued tailoring had on both men’s and women’s wear following its most high profile early outing as worn by Richard Gere in the 1980 film, American Gigolo. That same point of view is undergoing something of a revival right now.
Tailoring has been centre stage so far this season at Dior (Edwardian line coats, wide-legged pants and, of course, the Bar jacket). It had considerable impact at Chanel also where Karl Lagerfeld pulled seams towards the back of the garment ensuring the front of it was pristine - pure. Bouchra Jarrar’s long, leggy trousers seemed more relevant than ever: this insider name cuts some of the most flattering pants in the business.
Armani Prive Autumn Winter 2014 [Getty]
For Autumn/Winter 2014 the Armani Prive trouser suit – worn with cigarette legged trousers or cute shorts – was youthful and boyish. Broad tailored ruffles at hems and cuffs were a feminine though still architectural touch. As the show progressed, clothes became more fanciful, aided and abetted by fishnet, sequin embellished head-pieces courtesy of Philip Treacy who watched his own work pass by front row. In direct contrast to the slender cuts that opened this collection were voluminous, graphically printed swing coats, chubbies – in organza, not fur – and sweet, puffed dresses reminiscent of passing clouds.
In a colour palette restricted to red, white and black throughout, the designer’s take on eveningwear was mostly more form-fitting and typically star-spangled: studded with crystal or veiled and scattered with baubles that appeared almost to hover about their surfaces.