My Fashion Week: Nicholas Kirkwood On Why Platforms Are Over!

18 September 2012 by

It’s a responsibility making shoes for different designers. I would never let on what the others are doing, but it’s an issue if they’re asking for similar designs from me.

This season Peter Pilotto’s were quite complicated whilst Erdem’s were bolder but had a lighter silhouette. It’s not so much about the chunky platform anymore; things are more feminine again.

The trend now is for experimentation on the basic pointy pump. Everyone still likes the shape but we’re being a bit more adventurous.

Personally, I’ve introduced a new mid-heel. I like to draw shapes and silhouettes and adapt them from season to season. Now that I have my own shop I’ve had to make my range broader, so there are more flats too! I can’t just do cocktail heels anymore.

I don’t usually spend too much time backstage at the shows that I’ve been working on – especially if it’s stressful. I go back, say hi, but if it starts getting a bit tense then I’ll make my exit!

There’s definitely an expectation from the press and buyers at London Fashion Week. I need to make sure I do the best I can for them, so it is a pressure. I’d rather do fewer collaborations, and do them really well, as I don’t want to be over worked and not get the result I really want.

For summer, I drew inspiration from a glassblower called Dale Chihuly. I love the bright colours he’s being using and some of the shapes he makes, the fluidity in his work, I’ve tried to take a certain edge from that and put it into a toe gap or a heel.   

Interview by Alice Olins


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