At the end of London Collections : Men yesterday, Grazia Daily attended an exclusive Q&A with Dylan Jones, GQ head honcho and BFC menswear committee chairman, who said that the reason now had seemed an appropriate time to launch a dedicated menswear fashion week in London was not only because ‘when economic times are tough, men dress up’ but also because ‘men are beginning to consumer like women’. Well; until we witness a punch-up at a Topman design collection launch (as happened at Mary Katranzou for Topshop) we’ll reserve judgement on that second statement, but whatever the theory, the reality of the inaugural London Collections: Men is this: is was a resounding success.
And THESE were our favourite bits…
Colour. Was. Everywhere - and especially pink. From Meadham Kirchoff’s floral punk installation, where the duo showcased bold block coloured jackets and shorts embellished with embroidery and sequins on pink haired models, through to bold lilacs and pinks inspired by re-fitting a mother’s clothes to fit her son at J W Anderson (above left), salmon shades at Christopher Shannon, and a power-pink cape at E Tautz (above right). Be brave, gents.
Colour was everywhere, but so was monochrome. Now; we appreciate it might seem indulgent, really, to talk about monochrome being back ‘in’ – especially in terms of menswear – if you consider that a black suit and white shirt is pretty much a wardrobe staple for 98% of the male population. But there was a LOT of monochromatic style at the menswear shows; from Lou Dalton’s minimal 90s collection (above left), to Alistair Carr’s final outing for Pringle (which elicited not only the longest queue of the weekend, but also the biggest round of applause), and James Long’s white shirts and black culottes (above right). So, we’re going to call it: monochrome is in.
From Richard Nicoll’s debut menswear collection – tailored shorts in pale blue, fitted bombers and luxe holdalls (above left) – to Topman Design’s 90sAmericana take on the trend, with cropped basketball vests and pretty much everything crafted from mesh (above right) – there was a lot of urban sportswear on show for S/S 13. We only have on problem – we’re not sure if ‘sports luxe’ sounds a bit feminine? Just ‘sports’, maybe? Or do you have a better suggestion. Answers below.
Trends that won’t die:
Rucksacks; like the amazing tri-tone fringed numbers created for Christopher Shannon by the Cambridge Satchel Company (above left), rucksacks are set to remain as the bag of choice for gents come Spring Summer 2013. Also falling into this category, though arguably more troubling, is the socks with sandals ‘trend’ which we first noticed last year on the Kim Jones for Louis Vuitton runway (seen on James Long SS 13 above right). Oddly, this might be growing on us. You?
Not the colour, silly; the drink! From what was unarguably the event of the weekend – the Mr Porter bash on Friday night which saw Alexa on the decks, David Gandy and Mollie King being very civil exes, Graham Norton and David Furnish dance to Madonna and Jon Hamm arrive by public transport - through to the Dunhill pub-party where Will Self played landlord and ran his own pub quiz, the Tom Ford dinner at 34 following his Q&A with Grazia's very own Paula Reed, and a swanky champagne reception hosted by (show sponsor) Vodafone, which we attended yesterday afternoon, the menswear shows were one big champagne-fest this season. It is SUCH a hard life. Check out our gallery, top, for some party pics.