London Fashion Week menswear day has tended, in previous seasons, to feel like a tacked-on addition to the women’s schedules. You turn up to watch a show and find security guards filling in their time sheets and irritated men and women waiting to dismantle the marquee; that sort of thing. But no longer! Yesterday more details following January's announcement that from June we are set to join the international fashion schedule in having a whole menswear week (actually three days; but you can’t have it all, you know).
GQ ed Dylan Jones announced men’s fashion week at a press conference at the star of the James Long show yesterday, saying quite rightly that ‘menswear is something we are extraordinarily good at…. It is an intrinsic part of British heritage and history’. Jones also announced that Prince Charles would be hosting an event to launch the schedule, and that Tom Ford, Christopher Bailey and Calvin Klein are already confirmed to take part. Which is all very exciting.
As well as the excitement surrounding June’s menswear week, yesterday saw some outstanding menswear collections from the likes of Topman Design and newcomers Agi + Sam as part of the MAN show, alongside J W Anderson and menswear fashion darling James Long. From the catwalks to the streets, Grazia Daily has scouted out the best in London menswear for you, as well as few emerging trends for menswear this Autumn/Winter.
If it ain’t plaid or striped, then patter is a hard sell in menswear. Topman Design’s paisley Spring Summer 2012 collection, for instance, was something we loved, but the silk pyjama shirts and micro shorts do not SCREAM ‘make mine a pint’. We reckon that Christopher Shannon (above and gallery) got it just about spot on for Autumn / Winter 2012; his giant paisley looked a little bit tribal, a little bit graphic and almost was almost exclusively navy and white. He also showed patterned bombers and jumpers that looked half varsity-badged and half patterned. Topman Design, meanwhile, eschewed paisley for what is best described as an Erdem-esque gothy pattern on their Autumn/Winter shirts. Spooky and cool, but very very wearable (see gallery) as did Agi + Sam, as part of the MAN show, who showcased bold, tribal patterns in shadres from mustard to scarlet, that were both wearable and edgy.
Ace news for girls eager to matchy-match their boyfriends in on all things 90s. From baseball caps aplenty in the audience (here’s brilliant menswear blogger, Monsieur Robot, wearing his) to patterned denim a la Stussy at Christopher Shannon, through to customised Cat boots by Martine Rose (below). Why did we insist on chucking out our Fat Willys t-shirt when we went to Uni? WHY?
The Topman Design show, which attracted the starriest FROW of the day including David Gandy (who said a meltingly sexy ‘Hi’ to all Grazia readers, by the way) and Ronnie Wood, was a stellar collection from the Topman design team, headed by Gordon Richardson. We loved the outerwear – brilliantly tailored, double breasted coats and pony skin biker jackets, all in the deepest black imaginable. Check the gallery for our fave items.
Rucksacks: minimal vs embellished.
Here’s a question: would you actually allow your boyfriend to rock a man clutch? Because, in all honesty, we are not sure. However, our uncertainty didn’t stop the numerous man clutches making an appearance on both on the catwalks at J W Anderson and James Long, as well as under the arms of many a menswear blogger. HOWEVER - at the other end of the spectrum is the all-pervading rucksack, which like a well-worn plaid shirt is emerging as a trans-seasonal piece for all guys, no matter what their style. Of course, because we are magpies, we loved the embellished bags at James Long more than anything. Look above! But we are also loving the super-minimal, lasting, luxe variety that are emerging - one of our favourites is the 'Henry' rucksack by Mulberry (below).
Patent leather trousers. And coats.
Hmm. From James Long’s patent trousers in claret, to Topman’s patent mac and J W Anderson's shiny trimmed hats, patent leather was everywhere. Be afraid, gentlemen. Be verrry afraid. Check the gallery for pics!
Grazia Daily's own pictures were taken with the brilliant Fujifilm X10