DAY Birger et Mikkelsen Autumn Winter 2012
Wow. You might have thought Britain has been chilly lately, but Grazia Daily have just got back from Copenhagen Fashion Week, where the temperature was grazing -12 and the river had frozen solid as well as our fingers and toes. We wanted to find out more about the Danish Fashion scene, so we spoke to ace London designer and native of Denmark – Peter Jensen – about what we could expect, apart from a lot of jumpers, that is.
‘Copenhagen fashion week is great fun for me, I mean, because I come from Denmark, it is a chance for me to catch up with people I haven’t seen all year, and a chance to hang out with old friends. Apart from that, I think you will findCopenhagen fashion week is a lot more commercial than London – there isn’t so much that fantasy element to it, it’s really more about price points and what is going into the shops. That is why we show our mainline in London, although we have come to the exhibition with our knitwear collection’.
‘One thing you will notice is that the atmosphere is really calm, chilled out and friendly here. There’s no pushing and shoving or angry people. Another thing I’ve noticed over time is that Danish people like to support their own, so the Danish shops like to stock a lot of Danish brands.’
Thanks Peter, one more thing, can you give us any tips about up and coming fashion brands we’ll find at Copenhagen Fashion Week?
‘Ha ha. I don’t know! It's funny you ask that because I am judging a new fashion designer competition this week but because I’ve been in London for 17 years, I’m afraid I don’t know any of them are! I’m out of the loop!’
Oh well, after the full three days, we can proudly present our highlights . . .
1. Amazing sculptural knits
Stine Ladefoged is a young Danish knitwear designer with a sculptural knitwear style like Sandra Backlund or Louise Goldin. We liked the tubes, knots and plaits in her collection. She mainly used muted colours and neutrals, but we loved the hightlight of a bit of electric blue in this this loopy scarf-top.
2. Elegant Jumpsuits
When we heard the name Wackerhaus, we couldn’t help picturing Eighties eccentricity, but the reality was much much better. Designed by Trine Wackerhaus, the block-colour tailoring and elegant separates felt right for now, we particularly liked the quilted outfits and this turquoise jumpsuit.
3. Beauty favourite
Our eye was caught by the beauty backstage at Finnish label, RH, with golden eyes and gold-encrusted plaits, which set off the duo’s streetwear-inspired collection. We want double plaits as well now! photo from BAST magazine
4. Star of Fashion Week - DAY Birger et Mikkelsen
The show with the most polished production was DAY Birger et Mikkelsen, which showed a selection of tailoring in rich russet colours as well as delectable trench coats and belted, blankety outerwear, proving why it has such a big following the whole of Europe! [see image at top of page]
At most other fashion shows we’ve attended, there is usually a splash of champagne or maybe a cocktail or nice coffee (in the morning) to be quaffed. Here at Copenhagen, the Danish national drink was everywhere. One show was even held at the brewery! (although it was too dark to get a decent picture) we had lots of fun at the Henrik Vibskov show. Ooh, by the time we boarded the plane home we’d developed quite a taste for lager!
6. New Brand to Watch
Qoo Qoo is a micro brand from Latvia. It really stood out amongst all the suble colours and millions of knits were these completely unique, rather strange but incredibly cute printed tees, leggings and tops. Created by graphic designer Alyona, the range is made in Latvia, using sustainable fabrics and materials. It's available online, and we think we might be seeing more of this in the future.
7. Chanel in a cold climate
One of the big things everyone was buzzing about was the exhibition at the Museum of Danish design – entitled Northern Women in Chanel. It is made up of fashion editorial from over the years of how Scandinavian women put their own twist on the classic Parisian brand. How simply marvellous! photo by Peter Farago and Ingela Klemetz Farago
Report by Naomi Attwood