The fight has gone out of fashion. The catwalks were fabulously feminine on the first day of Paris couture week: nary a metal stud nor leather strap in sight. But there was enough lace and organza and enough billowing ballgowns to send the toughest chick on a Scarlet O Hara fantasy trip. Here are a few of my highlights...

1. VERSACE

Versace’s biker jacket of lazer cut flowers and her Blondeness’s silver lace gowns were fiercely fabulous. Loving the return of the high, scraped back ponytail: a Versace classic that I have missed.

2. CHRISTIAN DIOR

Bill Gaytten may be the caretaker designer but this was a masterclass in classic Dior and a long awaited return to form for the troubled couture house. Check out the revisited New Look silhouette and the classic Dior houndstooth skirt and Bar jacket...

...as well as the hand painted lace and the insanely lavish scarlet organza finale dress.

3. GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

Giambattista Valli's second couture show was another crowd pleaser. He may be the latest addition to the couture coterie but he knows how to make a picky customer happy. Note the polka dot chiffon cocktail dress and the degrade sequin embroidered gown...

...as well as the cream silk goddess dress and the sweeping hydrangea printed gown for the finale.

4. TOD'S

I swung by a cocktail party chez Tod’s, who have collaborated with editor of Dazed and Confused and Another magazines, Jefferson Hack, to create a mini collection of unisex (do people still use that word?) shoes. The No Code collection was worn by models in tableax vivant in room sets of the Hotel Amour, the latest addition to the too-cool-for-school Costes family. Think easy going desert boot, super soft Oxford lace up and slip on slipper and you’ve got it. A fashion shoe you can walk in? Now there’s a first. Out of everything that we saw today, this is the only collection that is in the shops right now. Perfect for hoofing around London Fashion Week.

by Paula Reed in Paris