It’s menswear time! And don’t they look lovely? From Miuccia Prada’s star-studded catwalk, featuring Adrien Brody and Jamie Bell, to Thom Browne’s bonkers but brilliant sportswear for Moncler, Grazia Daily has helpfully trawled though all of this season’s men’s shows in Milan. Our aim? To help you steer the boyfriend/husband/clueless friend towards a place called fashion for Winter 2012 – and here are our top pointers.
Burgundy. And blue. But, like, a really specific shade of blue
Where womenswear leads, menswear will follow, right? Well, this season menswear has followed womenswear into the drinks cabinet of colours. Specifically burgundy. We loved all the boozy hues on offer for the boys next winter, from the Pringle knits to this amazing Neil Barrett coat (above left). And the blue? Well it’s kind of royal. Or mid. But definitely not baby, or electric, or turquoise-y. More Tory blue than anything. And preferably as a suit, as Salvatore Ferragamo (above right) showed, or maybe just a hint on a shirt or a collar like at Bottega Veneta and Costume National.
A history for you: Way back in 2005, Scott Shuman started The Sartorialist, arguably the best and certainly the most famous street style blog on the interweb, on which he would snap, primarily, immaculate suited-and-booted men and would reference all manner of things which non-fash-industry men had hitherto been oblivious to. Pitti Uomo? Exactly.
However, what started as two-way conversation between Shuman and his readers morphed into something else entirely, when audience’s at the men’s shows suddenly appeared to become jam-packed full of guys wearing immaculate suits and looking around for Shuman, lest he should photograph them. And now, the whole relationship has gone full circle because this season, the men’s shows - from Corneliani (above) to Bottega Veneta - were full of suited-and-booted looks which could have easily come straight from the audience, or the Sartorialist website. Do you see?
Ok, so we know that ‘grey’ hardly counts as a menswear trend when 90% of all menswear available on the highstreet and in the boyfriend’s closet is already grey. But lo, for Autumn / Winter 12 it has been decided that grey is going to be a trend, and not just an accident. Why, look at Christopher Bailey's Burberry Prorsum show (above), or that of Missoni! And, therefore, the boyfriend is to be instantly deemed fashion-forward when he puts on a t-shirt which was, at one stage, black. Although actually, black is also very now as evidenced by Jil Sander. So even if the aforementioned black t-shirt has not faded to grey, there’s no need to panic. Phewf.
Dolce & Gabbana (above right) and Prada (above left) both indulged in what is more sensibly called ‘Victoriana’ but which we’re going to call ‘Sherlock style’. Double breasted coats, high collars, buttoned-up shirts, and capey fabulousness. We’re a fan of this. Now all that’s needed is for the boyfriend to embark on a bromance with Jude Law and we are SET.
Well this is a worry…
Leather trousers. Everywhere. Jil Sander (above left), Calvin Klein. Heck, even Bottega Veneta (above right). Is this really going to be a thing? Really?! And, if so, can we avert our eyes until it’s over?
>clutches desk breathlessly<