Nicholas Kirkwood has long been the underground, insider-info choice for shoe connoisseurs, collaborating with quirky cool brands like Rodarte and Louise Gray in the past. This season, however, he has made a full-on bid for world domination via the medium of catwalk shoes. At London Fashion Week alone he created foot adornments from the sublime (elegant round toes at Roksanda Illincic) to the bordering-on-ridiculous (hello metallic Cornish pasties at Meadham Kirchhoff) for numerous designers. A commentary of each follows below . . .
Nicholas Kirkwood for Erdem (top picture)
Shown at London Fashion Week, the Erdem shoe was a pointed-toe pump with ankle strap in multi-coloured printed fabric, monotone with perspex and leather. We loved these. We think they would be the perfect shoe makeover for someone a little conservative in the tootsie department like Kate Winslet. We imagine that SamCam and Thandie Newton have already put themselves on the waiting list.
Nicholas Kirkwood for Peter Pilotto
The Peter Pilotto printed fabric and leather sandal with Perspex heel and beaded detail was seen on the runway in four colour combinations. Despite looking a teeny tiny bit like they’d been customised by a highly skilled and crafty Blue Peter presenter, we totally fell for these. We think all fashion eccentrics, from SJP to Anna Dello Russo will want these in their cupboard, as well as fans of flora in the wardrobe.
Nicholas Kirkwood for Roksanda Ilincic
The beautiful Roksanda Ilincic shoes by Nicholas Kirkwood were fluoro patent, calf leather and fabric, with a fine ankle strap in a contrast colour. Absolutely gorgeous, we know for a fact that half the staff of Grazia will be jostling to get their hands on these. And, thinking laterally, wouldn’t they make a lovely change from mismatched Christmas shoes for Helena Bonham Carter?
Meadham Kirchhoff shoes by Nicholas Kirkwood
Seeing how the whole catwalk show for this London design due was like a collective hallucination - that fact that Anna Wintour was present on the FROW making it even harder to believe your eyes - the fact that the Kirkwood shoes here were bordering on insanity should have come as no surprise. One type had a beaded embroidery platform with pastel lame ruching and feather detail; the second, a glitter fabric platform, also with feathers and ruching. Bonkers but we loved ‘em. We think Gaga would be more than comfortable wearing these babies.
Pollini (Creative Director Nicholas Kirkwood) for Louise Gray
Louise Gray’s London Fashion week runway saw a Pollini multi-coloured braided platform sandal in multi-colour including blue, yellow and black. A comfortable alternative to vertiginous mad heels and wedges this season – why not test them out at Glastonbury festival, Notting Hill Carnival or other mass rave-ups as Louise herself would advocate?
All that’s to be done now is wait for the Manish Arora show – where Kirkwood’s latest handiwork will be unveiled at upcoming Paris Fashion Week. Oh yes, and put some money aside for when these beauties hit the shops in January!!!